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Hope Library Guides

Technical Services Manual

Manual for Technical Services student employees

Mending

Mending Workflow Summary 


Shelf Management/Circulation/Collection Development Librarian

Shelf Management identifies books that are damaged.  A mending slip is filled out for each book, and the status is changed to mending.  The books are stored at Circulation on the shelf containing damaged books.  The Collection Development Librarian (Dave) will decide which items to mend, replace, or withdraw based on use, importance for our collection, and recommendation in RCL.

Mending Department

Mending students will notate the evaluating librarian’s first name initial (e.g. “D” if Dave) in green in the upper right corner of the mending slip for each book to be mended. Mending students decide what type of mending procedures are needed to repair each book, and notate them on the end of the mending slip next to the call number.  Easy fixes (e.g., tip-ins, erratas, Easy Bind, ripped page, taping) may be placed on the mending shelf and repaired without approval.  Books that are volumes of sets may also be mended without approval; notate “set” in green in upper right corner of mending slip.  If it is determined that a book should be sent to the Bindery or have a box created to protect it, then a permanent staff member should decide if this course of action and expense should occur or if the book should be replaced.

Mending Note

When you have completed the mending on an item, please write your initials and the date on the inside back cover. E.g., "mended 8/13/2021 CN"

Acquisitions Department

If a book should be replaced with a new copy/edition, give the damaged book to Acquisitions for replacement.  Damaged books to be withdrawn should be given to Cataloging.

Mending Department

The books should then be distributed to the appropriate mending shelves for mending as time allows. After a book has been mended, place it on the ‘Completed Mending’ counter in the Metadata Associate's office.

The Mending supervisor will check the mended books and proof the spine titles.  If a call number spine label needs to be printed, first make sure the call number is acceptable and complete (a publication date might be needed) and update if necessary before printing the label. Return completed items to Circulation, who will update the location/work order information and shelve the item.  

Evaluating Books for Mending


Procedure:
  • Search in RCL to determine if book is recommended for college libraries; note “RCL” if yes.
  • Decide what types of repairs (see below) are needed, and notate them on mending slip. 
  • Keep easy-to-fix items (e.g. tip-ins, Japan paper, erratas, Easy Bind, taping, knitting needle) on the mending shelf to be repaired without librarian approval.
  • Damaged books that are volumes of sets may also be mended without librarian approval; notate ‘set’ in green in the upper right corner of mending slip.
  • If a damaged book is brittle (bend a corner of a page back and forth four times and if it breaks off, the book = brittle), do not choose Bindery or mending; it may need a box.
  • Give the remaining items (e.g. RB, RH, Box, Bindery, brittle) to librarian for mending approval.
  • If items are approved for mending by a librarian, notate on the mending slip “D” (Dave) or “B” (Brian), and put items on the appropriate mending shelves.
Types of Repairs:
  • Bindery
    Send a book to the bindery if any of the following is true:
     (1) we have already repaired it once;
     (2) the binding (the glue or cloth holding the pages in) is broken;
     (3) the book is a paperback and the binding has split or multiple pages are falling out.
  • Box
    Create a box to store a book if any of the following is true:
     (1) book is too brittle or fragile to be repaired in another way;
     (2) book is hand-sewn, leather-bound, or ‘Rare’.
  • Cover Corners (CC)
    Cover the corners of a book with new book cloth if the corners are damaged.
  • Double-sided Rehang Tape (2xRH)
    Use when only one side (board) is coming off, and the spine is still good and connected.
  • Rebuild (RB)
  • Rebuild a book if the spine is torn or loose but the boards (covers) of the book are firmly attached or can easily be mended with Japan paper.
  • Rehang (RH)
    Rehang a book if the material connecting the boards to the body of the book is badly torn, separated, or stretched out.  Repair if one or both boards are coming off.  If the book’s covers or boards are damaged or warped, make new covers, then rehang. 
  • Tip In (TI)
    Tip-in pages or sections of a book that have fallen out completely.

Mending Slip

When Circulation or another staff member identifies an item that requires repair, they should include a mending slip, which looks like this:

Making Mending Glue

Methyl cellulose, the main ingredient in most commercial wallpaper pastes, is acceptable for conservation purposes if used in its pure form. It comes as a white powder and does not need to be cooked. Methyl Cellulose dries more slowly than PVA glue, and is a reversible glue.

Supplies:

  • Methyl Cellulose powder
  • Distilled water
  • Measuring tablespoon
  • Whisk

Procedure for small batch (this is the one we use most often):

  • Combine 1 rounded tablespoon of methyl cellulose powder to ½ cup distilled water
  • Stir the mixture for a full 20 minutes with the whisk, scraping the sides when necessary  
  • Let stand for several hours
  • Thin with distilled water until the glue is the consistency of mayonnaise

Procedure for one quart:

  • Using a one quart container, sprinkle 5 tablespoons of methyl cellulose powder into one cup of distilled water
  • Stir briskly to prevent lumps 
  • Once the powder is thoroughly dispersed, add enough distilled water to make one quart
  • Let stand several hours, overnight if possible
  • To thin, mix in several drops of distilled water and let stand
  • When ready to use, pour a small amount into a separate container for active use 
  • Cover and store the main supply separately to prevent contamination or spoiling

Methyl cellulose absorbs water slowly so dilution takes a few minutes. Methyl cellulose is not as strong as starch paste or PVA glue, but should give adequate support for objects of moderate size. It dries more slowly than PVA, and is reversible. It keeps for several weeks and does not require refrigeration.

Mending - Boxes and Pambinders

Box - Clamshell 

Use for:
Large books (at least 1 ½” thick) which are too fragile or unique to be repaired in any other way (e.g., brittle, rare, hand-bound, leather-bound, already repaired once in house).

Supplies:

  • Acid-free corrugated board (if possible, use partially used boards)
  • Bone folder
  • Tape
  • Large cutting mat
  • Sharpie marker
  • Utility knife

Procedure:

  • Measure height (H), width (W), and thickness (T) of book.  Measure several places along each dimension in case the book is not exactly square. Use the largest measurements (and round up to the nearest 1/16” if necessary).  Refer to diagram on the next page.
  • Cut corrugated board to size.  Grain runs parallel to the width (i.e. grain short).  The board can be cut larger than needed and trimmed after measuring.
     - Width of board = (WIDTH x 2) + (THICKNESS x 3) + ⅞”
     - Height of board = HEIGHT + (THICKNESS x 2) + ⅝”
  • Mark vertical lines with a pencil.  Make sure each line is parallel to the left-hand edge.
     - First mark is THICKNESS + ⅛” from left-hand edge
     - Second mark is WIDTH + ¼” from first fold
     - Third mark is THICKNESS + ¼” as measured from second fold
     - Fourth mark is WIDTH + ⅛” from the third fold
     - The last section is THICKNESS + ⅛” (trim off any excess)
  • Mark horizontal lines for outer tray and the spine (on the left side of the board).  This is the larger of the two trays.
     - First mark is THICKNESS + ⅛” from top edge
     - Second mark is HEIGHT + ⅜” from first fold
     - The last section is THICKNESS + ⅛” (trim off any excess)
  • Mark horizontal lines for inner tray (on the right side of the board).  This is the smaller of the two trays and the measuring needs to start from the horizontal center and work out towards the edges.
     - Mark ⅛” towards center from the top edge of the spine.  This is the top of the inner tray (it will be smaller than the outer tray).
     - Continuing towards the top, measure THICKNESS + ⅛”.  
     - Repeat these two measurements for the bottom of the inner tray.
  • Before cutting cardboard, check book size to make sure it will fit.
  • While the cardboard is still flat, write the title on the spine with a Sharpie marker.
  • Cut along solid lines according to the diagram.  This includes the four corners (cut along the diagonal to form triangle flaps), the spine area, and the leftover at the top and bottom at the inner tray.  (Optional: cut a small notch out of the wall on the outer tray to make it easier to open the box).  Finally, cut ⅛” from top and bottom edge of spine along the spine edge of the inner tray.
  • Gently score and fold along all dotted lines (see diagram).  Be careful not to tear the top layer of paper on the board.  The vertical lines will be easier to fold than the horizontal lines because of the grain.
  • Split open the triangle flaps.  Be careful not to pull the paper back beyond the flaps.
  • Fold up walls and hold securely at 90 degrees (could place against bricks or weights).
  • Glue or tape inside of triangle flaps and fold onto surfaces of wall.  Rub down and let dry while propped at 90 degrees.
  • Make sure the book fits so it does not wiggle around when the box is closed, but can still be easily removed.  Remove any excess adhesive from inside and outside corners.

Image: Eric Alstrom <alstrom@msu.edu>  http://www.lib.msu.edu/alstrom/

Box - Phase (2 parts)

Use for:
Medium sized books (less than 1 ½” thick) which are too fragile or unique to be repaired in any other way (e.g., brittle, rare, hand-bound, leather-bound, already repaired once in house).

Supplies:

  • Acid-free corrugated board (if possible, use partially used boards)
  • Bone folder
  • Double-sided tape
  • Large cutting mat
  • Large metal ruler
  • Sharpie marker
  • Utility knife
  • Velcro circles

Procedure:
Summary: Two boards will be cut to make the box; the first is the inside board, the second is the outside board. Measure and mark lines to be cut; trace lines with bone folder to facilitate folding; cut board using utility knife. There is a sample box on the mending shelf.

  • Measure the dimensions of the book height (H), width (W), and thickness (T). Note: do not make the box too small; before cutting the cardboard, check book size to make sure it will fit.
  • Make the 1st / Inside board 
     - Choose appropriate-sized board:
         - Full width of the board = (2 x H) + (2 x T) + 1/8"
         - Full height of the board = W + 1/8"
         NOTE: cut and fold parallel to the corrugations on the board (not perpendicular to them)
     - Use a pencil and ruler to mark the outside lines of the board and use a utility knife to cut along the lines
     - Use a pencil and ruler to mark the fold lines of the board:
         - Measure (1/2 H) + 1/8" from either side for the first fold
         - Measure T + 1/8" from the first fold to create the second fold
     - Use large metal ruler and bone folder to crease board where it will be folded (dotted lines)

  • 2nd/ outside board
     - Choose appropriate sized board:
         - Full width of the board = (3 x W) + (2 x T) + 1/4"
         - Full height of the board = H + 1/8"
         NOTE: cut and fold parallel to the corrugations on the board (not perpendicular to them)
     - Use a pencil and ruler to mark the outside lines of the board and use a utility knife to cut along the lines
     - Use a pencil and ruler to mark the fold lines of the board:
         - Measure W - 1/4" from either side for the first fold
         - Measure T + 1/4" from the first fold to create the second fold
     - Use large metal ruler and bone folder to crease board where it will be folded (dotted lines)

  • Complete the box
     - Tape inside board to outside board using double-sided tape.
     - Add two Velcro circles one inch from corners. When one side of the Velcro is attached, remove the paper from the other side and press the two boards together to attach the other side in the appropriate spot.
  • Spine title
     - Remove book from box and lay box flat to facilitate spine writing.
     - Draw a faint pencil line where the title will be to aid in straight writing.
    Write the main title (no subtitles or author) of the book on the spine lightly first with a pencil, then permanently with a black Sharpie marker. If possible, write the title width-wise on the spine. Leave enough space for the call number label.

Box - Slipcase

Use for:
Small books which are too fragile or unique to be repaired in any other way. The book measurements should be approximately 1/4" thick or less, and its width should be less than 7 3/4" so the folder stock is large enough to make the slipcase.

Supplies:

  • Acid-free folder stock
  • Bone folder
  • Double-sided tape
  • Large cutting mat
  • Large metal ruler
  • Utility knife

Procedure:

  • Measure height (H), width (W), and thickness (T) of book. Measure several places along each dimension in case the book is not exactly square. Use the largest measurements (and round up to the nearest 1/16” if necessary).
  • Measure the board. NOTE: To avoid the possibility of the slipcase being too small, add 1/8” to the H and W dimensions, and 1/16” to the T.
  • Cut the board to size:
     - Total width = ((W x 4) - 2") + T
     - Total height = (T x 2) + H
  • Draw fold lines as indicated on the diagram below. Score and fold vertical lines. Make sure each fold is parallel to the left-hand edge.
     - First fold = W - 1" from left-hand side of the board
     - Second fold = W as measured from first fold
     - Third fold = T as measured from second fold
     - Fourth fold = W as measured from third fold
     - The distance from the fourth fold to the right-hand edge should be less than the width of the book (e.g. WIDTH - 1”)
  • Score (but do not fold) one T from both the top edge and the bottom edge.
  • Cut out the four corners as indicated on the diagram below. The vertical cuts should be exactly along the fold but the horizontal cuts should be angled in slightly.
  • Cut notches out on either side of the vertical thickness folds as indicated on the diagram below. Cuts should be angled just slightly.
  • Crease all folds.
  • Place glue or double-sided or regular tape on thickness tab and on right-hand flap at both top and bottom.
  • Assemble box.
     - Fold both inner flaps in, place book and fold spine around it
    NOTE: If the box is tight-fitting, cut out finger holes along open edge at top and bottom. These will be cut through two thicknesses (the inner flap and the outside wall), so making a finger notch is much easier before fully assembling the box.
     - Fold up the top and bottom thickness flaps on side A (those that don’t have tape on them
     - While making sure box is square and aligned with the book, tape down spine thickness flaps to the side A flaps
     - Again making sure box is square and aligned, fold flaps on side B (with the tape) onto the spine flaps and side A flaps (the spine flaps will be sandwiched between flaps A and B
     - Rub down top and bottom with book inside to make sure tape adheres

Eric Alstrom <alstrom@msu.edu>  http://www.lib.msu.edu/alstrom/

Pamphlet Binding (Pambinding)

Use for:
Loose, soft-cover materials that are not good candidates for plastic adhesive Easy Covers (aka cover-ups). Examples: stand alone video guides, music scores for performance, very small pamphlets. Pambinders may also be used to house pocketed materials (see “Pocket” section).

Supplies:

  • Pambinder (various sizes)
  • Bone folder
  • Bristol board
  • Glue
  • Paintbrush
  • Ruler
  • Sandpaper
  • Scissors
  • Stapler
  • Tape (double-sided and 2-inch)
  • Wax paper

Procedure:

  • Choose the best/smallest size pambinder that will fit. There are a few clear-front pambinders which could be used for newer, non-music score materials, but they are rarely used because they are more expensive and have been discontinued. In some unavoidable cases when the score is thick or contains many large parts, a wider-spine pambinder (1/4 - 1/2 inch) will have to be used.
  • If the music score is stapled into the cover, complete a Digital Media Lab Project Request Form asking DML to photocopy the front cover (and back, if necessary) as an 85% reduced size color copy and laminate. Tape this laminated sheet to the pambinder cover using double-stick tape, then reinforce it using 2-inch tape around the four sides (leave space for call number label).
  • If the music score has a paper-thin cover, create a sturdier cover using light-weight Bristol board cut to size, to which the score may be stapled before gluing into the pambinder.
  • If the music score is a set of parts with a loose cover, use appropriate sections of the cover and cut to fit, then laminate or cover with an Easy Cover sheet and secure with tape on the edges to the front of the pambinder and proceed with “Pocket” instructions to affix a pocket to a pambinder to house the parts.
  • Begin by placing the item to be pambound in the pambinder to measure how much of the inside green flap needs to be cut away. Line up the material so that it is within 1/8 inch of being flush with the bottom of the pambinder and cut away the extra green tape. If the green flaps will interfere with the ability to read important information on the item, adjust as needed.
  • If the pambinder is a lot larger than the item being pambound, then the excess could be cut off using a paper cutter or X-Acto knife to facilitate shelving. However, since pambinders are difficult to cut perfectly, avoid this step if possible.
  • If the item being pambound has smooth covers, use sandpaper to roughen up the edges that will be glued into the pambinder. (Or, use the PVA glue instead because it is stronger.)
  • Cut off excess inside flap material at the top. Place wax paper on both sides of the green flaps; use the paintbrush to coat flaps lightly with glue.
  • Carefully place the material as deep as possible within the green flaps. Make small adjustments if necessary before the glue dries. Smooth on both sides with a bone folder.
  • Place the pambinder in the press and allow it to dry overnight. Do not place the spine part of the pambinder under the press because this might crush it.
  • Reinforce stapled music scores (NOT the glued type) by stapling the pambinder spine 1-2 inches from the top and bottom edges, or staple once in the middle.

NOTES:

  • When using glue, keep the glue off the cutting mat by protecting the mat with a large piece of scrap paper. After using a glue brush, please clean it well and separate the bristles. Also, run the sink water long enough to wash away any glue in the sink.
  • When using a book press, please leave the mending slip in a readable position with the call number facing out, and put your personalized magnet on the press.

Pocket

Use for:      
Loose materials that need to be kept with a text. Examples: maps, separate music scores. Pockets may be used in pambinders or regular books.

Supplies:

  • Envelope (use large Hope College envelopes purchased from the bookstore)  
  • Scissors or paper cutter
  • Double-sided tape
  • 2-inch tape

Procedure:     

  • Cut the envelope to size. The envelope should be slightly wider than the materials that it will hold (about 1/4 inch). In height, the envelope should cover approximately one-half of the material (or be about 6 inches tall). If the pocket material is too tall or too wide, it may be folded to fit in the pocket.
  • If necessary, seal up the open side of the pocket with Scotch magic tape.
  • The pocket should be placed on the inside back cover (when possible) of the book or pambinder.
  • Mount the pocket using double-sided tape. Place tape along all four edges of the pocket and diagonally down the middle. Carefully smooth the pocket into place.
  • If the pocket being created is for a set of music score parts, choose the lead score part (such as the violin I or clarinet part) and glue that into the pambinder (see “Pamphlet Binder” section), and put the remaining parts in the pocket.

Mending - Rehang, Rebuild Spine, etc.

Rehang a Book

Use for:
Books with covers falling off; or if the material connecting the boards/covers of the book to the body of the book is badly torn, separated, or stretched out. Repair if one or both boards are coming off.

Supplies:

  • Rehang tape or 2xRH tape
  • Muslin
  • Bone folder
  • Book boards
  • Book press
  • Bricks
  • Glue
  • Paintbrush
  • Sandpaper
  • Scissors
  • Scrap paper
  • Wax paper
  • X-acto knife

Procedure:

  • Cut through the netting of the book (the material connecting the boards/covers of the book to the body of it) to remove both boards/covers. Additionally, if the spine has significant damage, cut it off the boards. If there is excess paper, netting, or glue on the spine, use sandpaper to sand it off. If the spine is real smooth, use sandpaper to roughen it so the glue will adhere better.
  • If the covers or boards are damaged or warped, discard them. Choose ‘new’ boards (from the collection of used boards) that will fit the book as closely as possible.
  • Trim each spine-edge cover so that the board has a smooth clean edge with all excess removed. The pages on the body of the book may need to be trimmed as well and/or tipped in so that the body is secure and has a clean edge.
  • Cut two pieces of rehang tape, one for each board just short of the length of the book block. Fold the tape almost in half (with one side 1/4 to 1/2 inches shorter than the other) with the “good” side (the textured, unsmooth side that looks most like material) facing in and the side with the pencil marks (leftover from cutting the rehang tape off the roll) facing out.
  • Using a paintbrush, apply glue to the smaller side of the folded rehang tape (the side with the pencil marks). Place this on the body of the book with the fold being as close to the edge as possible. Use the bone folder to smooth and secure the tape to the body of the book. Repeat this process with the other piece of rehang tape to the other side of the book. There should now be two small wings of rehang tape flapping off the book.
  • Prop up the book between two bricks with the spine of the book facing up. Measure and cut a piece of muslin so that it is just shorter than the length of the body of the book and in width it is just smaller than the combined width of the spine and the two flaps.
  • Brush glue on one side of the muslin. Place scrap paper or wax paper under the flaps to prevent glue from getting on the book. Place the piece of muslin on the spine/flaps and smooth it with the bone folder or your hand for a snug fit on the spine. Be sure there are no ripples in the material.
  • Remove book from bricks so that it can lie flat. Line up the book boards evenly, making sure they overlap and protect all three sides of pages. Put a piece of scrap paper with wax paper underneath it and place under one of the flaps on the body of the book. Glue the top of the flap and remove the scrap paper. Put the book cover onto the glued flap and press it into place. Close the cover and press firmly to secure. Make sure everything is lined up inside and out. Small adjustments can be made if necessary, but the rehang tape can only be pressed in a downward motion or it will bunch up the material on the spine.
  • Repeat this process on the other side of the book. Leave the wax paper in on both sides and place in the book press overnight to dry.
  • Follow instructions for “Rebuild a Spine.”

NOTES:

  • When using glue, keep the glue off the cutting mat by protecting the mat with a large piece of scrap paper. After using a glue brush, please clean it well and separate the bristles. Also, run the sink water long enough to wash away any glue in the sink.
  • When using a book press, please leave the mending slip in a readable position with the call number facing out, and put your personalized magnet on the press.

Rebuild a Spine

Use for:
Books whose covers are still well attached but have a ripped or loose spine that is breaking off.

Supplies:

  • Book cloth
  • Bristol board
  • String 
  • Bone folder
  • Bricks
  • Crystal Clear acrylic coating spray paint
  • Glue
  • Paintbrush
  • Ruler
  • Scissors
  • Scrap paper
  • Straight edge
  • Tattle-tape
  • Wax paper
  • Writing pen
  • X-Acto knife

Procedure:

  • Carefully cut off the spine and trim the edges of the book so that the sides are clean.
  • Set book on Bristol board, spine up, and mark height and width. Lay flat to measure length. Using a straight edge, cut the board with an X-Acto knife. Check your newly cut piece of Bristol board (spine board) with the book and make adjustments if necessary.
  • Choose a color and size of book cloth that matches your book as closely as possible. The 4-inch wide book cloth is usually used, but if the book is extra wide a larger size is needed. Occasionally, a new piece of cloth needs to be cut if the book is very large.
  • Using the spine board as your guide, cut a piece of book cloth that is approximately 1 1/4 inches (ruler width) longer than the spine at both ends.
  • Center the spine board on the book cloth and glue down. Smooth out using a bone folder.
  • Bend/crease the book cloth on all sides of the spine board.
  • Cut two notches at both ends of the book cloth (see Diagram 1 below). Be sure to have the top point of the triangle line up as closely as possible with the string.
  • Cut two pieces of string the width of the spine board and glue them at the ends of the bristol board directly on the book cloth.
  • Glue down the middle flap created by the triangle cuts over the end of the spine board  (see Diagram 2 below).
  • Before attaching the new spine to the book, proceed with Spine Title instructions first.
  • Stabilize the book with bricks. Place the spine on scrap paper, brush glue on flaps (not the spine board) which will adhere to front and back covers. Line up the spine with the book, center, and adhere the side flaps (not the spine board) to the outside of the book. Smooth the side flaps onto the covers of the book using the bone folder.
  • Fold the small tabs on the ends down around the boards and adhere with glue. Put wax paper inside to protect the covers of the book from sticking to the pages.
  • Create new corners for the book (proceed with Cover Corners instructions) if necessary.
  • Put in book press overnight; place white stabilizing boards with raised groove in groove/joint of book to maintain it. If white boards are not needed because there is no joint, do not put spine directly under the book press because this might crush it.

Diagram 1                                                                Diagram 2

 

NOTES:

  • When using glue, keep the glue off the cutting mat by protecting the mat with a large piece of scrap paper. After using a glue brush, please clean it well and separate the bristles. Also, run the sink water long enough to wash away any glue in the sink.
  • When using a book press, please leave the mending slip in a readable position with the call number facing out, and put your personalized magnet on the press.

Spine Title 

Use for:

Writing titles on rebuilt spines and boxes made for books.

Supplies: 

  • Writing pen, pencil 
  • Crystal Clear acrylic coating spray paint

Procedure:

  • When possible, flatten the book or box to facilitate writing the title on the spine.
  • Write the main title of the book on the spine, first with a pencil. Trace with the appropriate color pen (the color that will be most easily read). Erase the pencil title, if possible.
  • Use the title page title; not the book cover title. Do not include author or long subtitle.
  • Leave enough space (2 1/2 inches) at the bottom of the spine for the call number label.
  • If possible (i.e. if the book is thick enough), write the title horizontally on the spine. If this is impossible (i.e., book is thinner and/or words are long), write it vertically.
  • Use one of the following lettering methods: (see Samples below)
     - all capital letters (good for very short titles)
     - different sized capital letters
     - combination of upper and lower case letters. Do not capitalize words like “a, an, and, in, of, on, or, the, to, with” unless it is the first word of the title.
  • Go outside on the loading dock and spray the lettering with clear acrylic coating.

Samples:

Cover Corners

Use for:
Books whose corners are damaged.

Supplies:

  • Book cloth (3-inch)
  • Glue
  • Paintbrush
  • Scissors
  • Wax paper

Procedure:

  • If the book corners are badly frayed, insert glue into the layers of the damaged corners.
  • Use 3-inch book cloth and fold one corner to line up with the opposite side to form a right triangle. Cut this triangle from the book cloth roll, and do this same thing one more time so that you have two perfect squares.
  • Cut the squares on the fold to form 4 individual isosceles right triangles.
  • Line up all four triangles together and cut off 1/2 inch from the 45 degree angle corners perpendicular to the sides.
  • Next cut off 1/2 inch from the top of the triangles.
  • Line up one of these newly formed corners with the corner of the book. The cloth should be centered on the corner with the top of the triangle cloth at the corner. There will be two side flaps that overhang both sides. Put glue on the triangular book corner, and press firmly onto the book. Repeat with each corner.
  • Open the book cover so the underside of the flaps can be seen. Glue down one of the side flaps to the book cover. Then take the corner edge of the other flap that is closest to the corner of the book and fold it towards the book’s side so it lines up forming a little triangle, and glue it down. Next, glue the rest of the flap down to the book. If necessary, cut off excess cloth if it sticks out of the book. Repeat with each corner.
  • Place a piece of wax paper in each cover to protect the book from the glue.
  • Remove wax paper when the glue is dry (about 24 hours).

NOTE: When using glue, keep the glue off the cutting mat by protecting the mat with a large piece of scrap paper. After using a glue brush, please clean it well and separate the bristles. Also, run the sink water long enough to wash away any glue in the sink.

Mending - Page Repairs

Repairing Ripped Pages

Use for:
Book or magazine pages that have been ripped.

Supplies:

  • Document Repair Tape
  • Bone folder
  • Ruler

Procedure:

  • Smooth the wrinkles in the page and line up all printing along the edges of the rip. Use a ruler as weight to hold the page in place.
  • Cut enough document repair tape to cover the rip. You may have to use several different pieces of tape if the rip is long or jagged.
  • Carefully peel the tape from the backing and place over the rip. Smooth the area with a bone folder.
  • Tape the rip on both sides of the page. The edges of tape on either side of the paper should not align.

Use for:
Book pages that have split from each other or are becoming separated so that you can see the binding between two pages.

Supplies:

  • Japan paper
  • Bone folder
  • Glue
  • Paintbrush
  • Scissors
  • Wax paper

Procedure:

  • Choose the type of Japan paper that is most appropriate for the repair.  There are three strengths of Japan paper; for a small separation, use the thinnest type.  If the split is quite prominent, use the medium strength.  For book covers, use the thickest Japan paper.  (Notes:  When possible, use Japan paper scraps, which are located in the box next to the Japan paper that is already cut.  When these supplies run out, get more Japan paper from the rolls stored in the drawer of the island unit.  Cut more strips with an X-acto knife, using the heavy straight edge to measure width of about 1 ½ inches and to cut a straight line.)
  • Cut the strip of Japan paper so that it measures the length of the book.
  • Brush the split (around the seam of the book) lightly with glue so that the glue only covers a space the width of the Japan paper.  Place the Japan paper over the glued area and smooth with a paper towel or a bone folder.
  • Place wax paper in between the repaired pages and allow to dry.
     

Tip In

Use for:
A page or small section of pages that have fallen out of a book.

Supplies:

  • Bone folder
  • Brick
  • Glue
  • Ruler
  • Scrap paper
  • Wax paper
  • X-acto knife

Procedure:

  • First make sure that all the pages are there and that the page numbers are in the correct order. Check to see if the inserted pages will line up inside and outside of the book.
  • Even up the pages if necessary with an X-acto knife and ruler so that they will fit well in the book.
  • If there are multiple pages, start tipping in with the last page and adding pages as you move forward.
  • To tip in, paint the actual edge of the page with glue. For added security you can glue the page itself, but only up to 1/8 inch from the edge. Place the page as much into the seam of the book as possible and line up the edges. Put wax paper on both sides of the page and smooth with a bone folder if necessary; the paper may pucker a bit.
  • Put the book under a brick for a few hours or overnight to secure the tip in.
  • If tipped-in pages now stick out farther than the rest of the text block, trim page edges with scissors.

NOTE: When using glue, keep the glue off the cutting mat by protecting the mat with a large piece of scrap paper. After using a glue brush, please clean it well and separate the bristles. Also, run the sink water long enough to wash away any glue in the sink.

Magazine Repair

Use for:
Magazines that are high circulation items and need to be protected from damage, or magazines that have already been damaged (e.g., if the cover came off) and need repair. Examples: People and Rolling Stone.

Supplies:

  • Document Repair Tape
  • Repair Tape Easy Bind
  • Ruler
  • Scissors
  • Stapler 

Procedure:

  • For a magazine that needs to be reinforced, Easy Bind the inside covers (front and back) and the outside spine. Use the ruler to apply the Easy Bind to make the taping as smooth as possible.
  • For a magazine that has fallen apart, reinforce the exact middle of the magazine on the inside with Easy Bind and then staple the cover back on as close to the original placement as possible. Then Easy Bind the inside covers and outside spine as above.
  • If the cover is ripped, use Easy Bind or Document Repair Tape to put it back together.
  • If spine is coming apart or damaged, use Taping machine.

Tape Machine (3M Scotch)

Use for:
Quick and easy spine reinforcement or repair instead of rebuilding the spine. Use on disposable books which will not be kept indefinitely.

We also use the Tape Machine to reinforce plays (e.g., small publications without much/any spine.

Supplies:

  • Scotch Book Tape
  • Tape Machine

Procedure:

  • Place book on the left side of machine and line up the lower edge of the spine with the line indicated on the machine. Make sure book is under the cutting lip of the machine and is flush with the back of the machine.
  • Pull tape out tightly to end of book (but not going over the edge of the book since there should not be any overhanging tape), and press firmly to book.
  • Slide cutter blade across tape to cut, then remove book. Make sure the tape is pulled tight before cutting.
  • Press tape over spine of book and then onto the front and back of the book. Make sure to press out any air bubbles, and trim any overhanging tape.